In 2018, while visiting my aunt in Garowe, we often spent our afternoons sitting in the courtyard, enjoying the outdoors as we usually did. One day, during one of these moments, she suggested we take a road trip to Eyl. It was only six hours away by car, and she wanted me to see it before I left. Excited by the idea, we decided to go the very next day. That evening was spent trying to find a rental car. I couldn’t sleep that night because I was so excited—Eyl, a coastal gem, and the thought of a road trip through such a beautiful area felt unreal!
Setting Off
We woke up early the next morning, determined to beat the heat and arrive as soon as possible. The car we managed to rent was an old Land Cruiser nicknamed “Laila Alwi.” The name, apparently borrowed from a tradition of naming cars after admired women, struck me as both sexist and insulting. Despite its age, the Land Cruiser was perfect for the tough off-road journey ahead.
Our group consisted of six or seven people, and the car was packed with water and snacks. After reading our adhkar and making dua, we set off on our adventure.
The Road Trip
Along the way, we stopped several times. Since it was the first trip to Eyl for both me and another relative (she had come from the UK, and I from the U.S.), we couldn’t resist pausing at every interesting spot to take pictures and soak in the scenery. The environment was mesmerizing—vast, untouched, and full of raw beauty.
As we approached Eyl, the road became steep and narrow, winding up the mountains. It was both thrilling and nerve-wracking. At times, we had to stop so the driver could honk to warn any oncoming cars on blind curves. Despite the fear, the views were absolutely breathtaking. From the heights, we could see the road stretching behind us, a landscape dotted with trees and rocks, and the horizon meeting the sky. Between my fear of heights and the incredible scenery, it was an unforgettable experience.
Arriving in Eyl
Eyl is a coastal town split into two parts by the mountains: the upper part (Daawad), which houses schools and administrative institutions, and the lower part (Badeey), where the ocean resides. Our goal was to experience the Indian Ocean, so we headed straight to the lower part.
We arrived late in the evening, as frequent stops along the way had stretched the journey longer than expected. We stayed in a family home just five minutes from the ocean. There weren’t many guesthouses or hotels in Eyl at the time, so this house was the best option. The hosts rented us two rooms, with a bathroom outside.
After a long day, we were starving. Our hosts brought us food, and we prayed Maghrib before settling in for the night. However, the city had no electricity—only solar power. At night, the darkness was overwhelming. Phones couldn’t be charged, there were no fans, and the heat and humidity were suffocating inside the house. We ended up sleeping outside under the moonlight, which was both beautiful and unnerving. Between stray cats roaming around and the unknown creatures of the night, I barely slept.
Experiencing the Ocean
At dawn, we prayed Fajr and walked to the beach. Seeing the vast Indian Ocean for the first time was indescribable. The sunrise, the crashing waves, and the cool morning breeze left me in a state of awe and gratitude. In that moment, every discomfort from the previous night faded away, replaced by a sense of peace and wonder at Allah’s creation.
Exploring the Town
After breakfast, we explored the upper part of Eyl, visiting historical sites like Daarta Dhowre Sheneeleh and remnants of the Darawiish era. My maternal family, being Dhulbahante, gave me a deeper appreciation for the stories and history tied to the area. We also visited local farms and tasted fresh fruits and vegetables straight from the source.
At the time, Eyl was far less developed than it is now. There were no coffee shops, restaurants, or hotels. Meals had to be prepared at home, which meant no coffee for me—a tragedy in itself. Thankfully, tea became a comforting substitute. The food was simple, but the fresh fish, fruits, and vegetables were exceptional.
Heading Back
After two days, we decided it was time to head back to Garowe. The lack of sleep and modern comforts had taken its toll, and we found ourselves longing for the familiarity of home. On the return journey, everyone except the driver fell asleep, myself included. I rarely sleep while traveling, but sheer exhaustion and caffeine deprivation knocked me out in the backseat —snoring, no less. (Let’s just say, it wasn’t a pretty sight—Alhamdulilah, there were no potential future husbands around to witness it!)
When we finally reached Garowe, I was ecstatic to take a proper shower, sleep in a comfortable room, and, most importantly, have coffee again.
Reflection
That trip to Eyl was an experience I’ll never forget. The raw beauty of the landscape, the thrill of the journey, and the serenity of the ocean were worth every discomfort. It gave me a newfound appreciation for nature, history, and the simple joys of life. Eyl left an indelible mark on me—a reminder of Allah’s majestic creations and the rich history of the Somali people.
